Never leave the Driveway without checking these off.
- Tire Pressure Check: Check both the tow vehicle and the trailer. Don’t forget the trailer spare!
- Cross your Chains: Safety chains should form an “x” under the tongue to catch it if the disconnect happens.
- Check the air pressure: Got a Shocker Air Hitch? Make sure the airbag is inflated to the sweet spot for your specific load.
- Pin and Clip: Double-check that your hitch pin and ball mount are fully secured.
- Light It Up: Test turn signals, brake lights, and running lights before putting it in drive.
1. Tire Pressure Check
Tires are the only thing between you and the pavement, and towing puts massive stress on them.
- The Tow Vehicle: Check your door jamb sticker. When towing, you often need to inflate the rear tires to their “Max Load” PSI (which is usually higher than your daily driving pressure).
- The Trailer: Most trailer tires (Special Trailer or “ST” tires) are designed to be run at their maximum cold pressure listed on the sidewall to reduce heat buildup.
- The Spare: Trailer tires are notorious for blowouts due to dry rot or sitting. A flat spare is just a heavy ornament; check it every single trip.
2. Cross Your Chains
This isn’t just a suggestion; in most jurisdictions, it’s the law.
- The “Cradle” Effect: By crossing the chains (left to right, right to left), you create a steel hammock. If the coupler jumps off the ball, the trailer tongue drops onto the chains rather than digging into the asphalt—which would likely flip the trailer.
- Slack Management: Crossing the chains also allows you to take up excess slack, preventing them from dragging and sparking, while still giving you enough lead to make tight turns.
3. The Shocker Air Hitch “Sweet Spot”
If you’re using a Shocker Air hitch, you’re aiming for a smooth ride, not a rock-hard one.
- The Visual Cue: Look at the bump stops or the angle of the rocker arm. You want the airbag inflated enough so that the unit is level and has travel room to compress and rebound.
- Adjustment: Always hook up the trailer first, then add air. If you pump it up while empty, it will be way too stiff once the tongue weight is applied. Usually, 10–25 PSI is the range, but trust the alignment marks on the hitch.
4. Pin and Clip (The “Double-Check”)
It sounds elementary, but “hitch walk” is real.
- The Hitch Pin: Ensure the pin goes all the way through the receiver and the cotter pin (bridge clip) is snapped securely on the other side.
- The Coupler: Once the trailer is on the ball, close the latch and insert a locking pin or a bolt through the latch handle. This prevents the latch from vibrating open on bumpy roads.
- The “Tug Test”: After pinning everything, jack the trailer up slightly. If the rear of the truck rises with it, you know the ball is properly seated in the coupler.
5. Light It Up
Modern wiring can be finicky. Corrosion in the 7-way plug is the most common cause of “ghost” light issues.
The Sequence: Don’t just look for “blinkers.” Check:
- Running Lights: Make sure the trailer is visible at night.
- Left/Right Turn: Confirms the signal circuit is grounded.
- Brake Lights: Have a partner stand back there, or use a mirror (or the reflection of a storefront window) to verify they brighten when you hit the pedal.
- Pro Tip: If the lights flicker or don’t work, clean the copper contacts on your plug with a bit of contact cleaner or a small wire brush.
Safety Note: If you are using a Weight Distribution Hitch (WDH), remember that your setup sequence changes slightly, as you’ll need to engage your spring bars after the initial ball-drop to distribute that weight to the front axle of your truck.