Air pressure changes can occur for an air spring bag (airbag), which is a normal, dynamic part of an air hitch and air bag suspension, primarily caused by stretching when new, changes in trailer load weight and placement, ambient temperature changes, or system leaks.
What causes you to believe that the air in the air hitch is not holding air? Are you seeing a slight air pressure drop? Is it losing a large amount of air? Is the air spring completely losing air and totally going flat?
There can be many variables for slight pressure drops, which may seem like an air leak, but it’s really a result of air spring stretching with new or drastic temperature changes.
- For the first several uses, you can expect an approximate 5 psi change, as the rubber and cord relax and stretch, they can maintain more volume. This ends up causing you to lose that 5 psi after the first few uses. After that, the bag will become very stable.
- As the temperature drops, you can expect a 1-2 psi change per 10°F drop or rise in temperature. Did you have a significant temperature change overnight?
There are many variables when it comes to major pressure drops or what can be assumed to be a major drop. This could be a result of an air pressure leak. However, more commonly, it can seem like it is losing air pressure when you add weight to your trailer or truck bed, which changes the tongue weight. If you add weight to your trailer, which adds more tongue weight, it can appear like the air spring is losing air pressure, but really, you just need to increase air pressure after you add additional weight.
Air Receiver
With an Air Receiver Hitch, like the SH-200-200 or SH-HD200-250 or any of its similar air receivers that have an actual airline going from the air spring to the hitch frame, there is a process to determine the cause. First, you want to put your trailer onto the hitch ball, load the trailer up, and ensure your trailer is evenly distributed (don’t go over the maximum tongue weight of your hitch and ball). After loading your trailer, you will then fill the air spring on the hitch with air until you slightly compress the tow vehicle’s side bump cushion.
If the guidelines above were followed, the next step is to ask the following.
- Did you add more weight to your trailer?
- Did your load on the trailer shift forward, shifting more weight onto your tongue?
- Did you remove something from your trailer and shift more weight onto the tongue?
- If you answered yes to any of the above questions, you didn’t lose pressure in your air spring. More weight added to the hitch from the trailer will require you to adjust the air pressure in the bag. Ensure that after you load or unload, you adjust your pressure accordingly; even adding a few hundred pounds to your trailer can have an impact on pressure.
- Are you still losing air after going through the above suggestions? If yes, please follow the next steps.*** Warning: Never remove the air spring from the frame when filling with air. ***
o Check your valve stem core and ensure it is tight. This is a common leak point.
o Air the air spring up to 50 psi and then use some soap and water and spray the air spring with the solution. Start with the air tank valve where it enters the bag and through to the frame of the air hitch, including the valve stem.
• If you see bubbles coming from the fitting connected to the air spring, you have several options to attempt to seal.
- Tighten the air tank valve approximately 1/4 turn.
- Remove the air tank valve from the air spring and remove old sealant (mark on your air spring where the fitting is clocked). After removing old sealant, use a sealant like Loctite 545 and put it on both the male threads (fitting) and female threads (air spring). Hand tighten the air tank valve until it is hand tight.
o For 1/8” NPT Air Tank Valves, go 2 full rotations with a wrench, 2-3 threads should be visible after assembly. *** Warning: Don’t bottom out the air tank valve to the air spring. ***
o For 1/4″ NPT Air Tank Valves, go 2.5 full rotations with a wrench, 1-3 threads should be visible after assembly. *** Warning: Don’t bottom out the air tank valve to the air spring. *** - If the valve stem has a leak, you will need to replace the valve stem core.
o Air the air spring up to 50 psi and use the same soap and water and spray the rubber bellow of the air spring, especially around the metal banding of the air spring. If you see bubbles around either the rubber bellow or the metal banding, please contact us immediately for replacement. If you have an immediate need for a repair, you can remove the air spring and use a fix-a-flat (approximately 4 oz) type sealant for temporary repair until you receive your new air spring. After filling, roll the air spring back and forth to evenly coat the inside of the air spring, then go back to the previous steps to test for leaks.
o If you can’t visibly see a leak, the next step is to take the air hitch and submerge it in water. Ensure you have approximately 50 psi in the air spring prior. When submerged, if there is a leak, you should see bubbles begin to come from the leak point. If it’s coming from the fittings, go through and follow the process above on resealing and assembling the airline to the air spring. If it’s coming from below and the metal band, call us immediately for replacement.
With the other Air Receiver Hitch products like the SH-TF200-200 and the SH-S200-200, these don’t have airlines built into the bag and connected to the frame; they have a Schrader valve. You would follow the same loading guidelines and filling guidelines as the Air Receiver Hitches with air lines. You would also follow the same guidelines for leak testing, except only around where the air tank valve is connected to the bag, the rubber bellow of the bag, and the metal banding of the bag. The only difference between the two is whether you need to reseal the air tank valve. *** Warning: Never remove the air spring from the frame when filling with air. ***
o If you run into a leak around your air tank valve, remove the air tank valve. Remove any of the old sealant left on it. After removing old sealant, use a sealant like Loctite 545 and put it on both the male threads (air tank valve) and the female threads (air spring). Hand-tighten the air tank valve until hand-tight, then follow the following guidelines based on fitting size.
For 1/8” NPT Air Tank Valves, go 2 full rotations with a wrench, 2-3 threads should be visible after assembly. *** Warning: Don’t bottom out the air tank valve to the air spring. ***
For 1/4″ NPT Air Tank Valves, go 2.5 full rotations with a wrench; 1-3 threads should be visible after assembly. *** Warning: Don’t bottom out the air tank valve to the air spring. ***
With our tongue mount hitches, such as SH-4500, the same rules for loading and filling with air apply, but you should fill it up until the split lock washer is compressed flat (truck side). If, after following the same loading rules and filling with air, you see you’re still losing air, please see the following directions.
*** Warning: Never remove the air spring from the frame when filling with air. ***
Check your valve stem core and ensure it is tight. This is a common leak point.
Air the air spring up to 50 psi and then use some soap and water and spray the air spring with the solution. Start with the air tank valve where it enters the bag and through to the frame of the air hitch, including the valve stem.
If you see bubbles coming from the fitting connected to the air spring, you have several options to attempt to seal.
- Tighten the air tank valve approximately 1/4 turn.
- Remove the air tank valve from the air spring and remove old sealant (mark on your air spring where the fitting is clocked). After removing old sealant, use a sealant like Loctite 545 and put it on both the male threads (fitting) and female threads (air spring). Hand tightens the air tank valve until it is tight.
For 1/8” NPT Air Tank Valves, go 2 full rotations with a wrench, 2-3 threads should be visible after assembly. *** Warning: Don’t bottom out the air tank valve to the air spring. ***
For 1/4″ NPT Air Tank Valves, go 2.5 full rotations with a wrench, 1-3 threads should be visible after assembly. *** Warning: Don’t bottom out the air tank valve to the air spring. *** If the valve stem has a leak, you will need to replace the valve stem core.
Air the air spring up to 50psi and use the same soap and water and spray the rubber bellow of the air spring, especially around the metal banding of the air spring. If you see bubbles around either the rubber bellow or the metal banding, please contact us immediately for replacement. If you have an immediate need for a repair, you can remove the air spring and use a fix-a-flat (approximately 4oz) type sealant for temporary repair until you receive your new air spring. After filling, roll the air spring back and forth to evenly coat the inside of the air spring, then go back to the previous steps to test for leaks.
If you can’t visibly see a leak, the next step is to take the air hitch and submerge it in water. Ensure you have approximately 50 psi in the air spring prior. When submerged, if there is a leak, you should see bubbles begin to come from the leak point. If it’s coming from the fittings, go through and follow the process above on resealing and assembling the airline to the air spring. If it’s coming from below and the metal band, call us immediately for replacement.
Air Equalizer
With our Equalizer product line, SH-7000, you will want to hook up your trailer to your equalizer, load your trailer or camper, set up your weight distribution system, and then proceed to fill with air. When properly installed, loaded, and filled with air, you should be close (1/8”-1/4”) or touching the trailer side bump cushions; you should never touch the truck side bump cushions when properly installed. If you’re having issues with losing air or if it appears it will not fill with air, please see the following directions.
*** Warning: Never remove the air spring from the frame when filling with air. ***
- It won’t fill with air, but there’s no leak! This is a common misinterpretation. You most likely are filling it with air, but there is too much tension on your weight distribution bars, putting too much leverage on the air spring. Adjust your tension and retry. If you’re still running into problems, call our customer service team. It may be possible you’re overweight or tongue heavy.
- Check your valve stem core and ensure it is tight. This is a common leak point.
- Air the air spring up to 50 psi and then use some soap and water and spray the air spring with the solution. Start with the air tank valve where it enters the bag and through to the frame of the air hitch, including the valve stem.
- • If you see bubbles coming from the fitting connected to the air spring, you have several options to attempt to seal.
- 1. Tighten the air tank valve approximately 1/4 turn.
- 2. Remove the air tank valve from the air spring and remove old sealant (mark on your air spring where the fitting is clocked). After removing old sealant, use a sealant like Loctite 545 and put it on both the male threads (fitting) and female threads (air spring). Hand tighten the air tank valve until it is tight.
For 1/8” NPT Air Tank Valves, go 2 full rotations with a wrench, 2-3 threads should be visible after assembly.*** Warning: Don’t bottom out the air tank valve to the air spring. ***
For 1/4″ NPT Air Tank Valves, go 2.5 full rotations with a wrench, 1-3 threads should be visible after assembly. *** Warning: Don’t bottom out the air tank valve to the air spring. *** - 3. If the valve stem has a leak, you will need to replace the valve stem core.
Air the air spring up to 50psi and use the same soap and water and spray the rubber bellow of the air spring, especially around the metal banding of the air spring. If you see bubbles around either the rubber bellow or the metal banding, please contact us immediately for replacement. If you have an immediate need for a repair, you can remove the air spring and use a fix-a-flat (approximately 4oz) type sealant for temporary repair until you receive your new air spring. After filling, roll the air spring back and forth to evenly coat the inside of the air spring, then go back to the previous steps to test for leaks.
If you can’t visibly see a leak, the next step is to take the air hitch and submerge it in water. Ensure you have approximately 50 psi in the air spring prior. When submerged, if there is a leak, you should see bubbles begin to come from the leak point. If it’s coming from the fittings, go through and follow the process above on resealing and assembling the airline to the air spring. If it’s coming from below and the metal band, call us immediately for replacement.
Gooseneck Air and Quick Air
With our Gooseneck Surge Air Hitch or Quick-Air product lines, such as SH-RND-SL, 4RND-STR-SL-CA/SH-RVGC-4405, SH-800-KP, a similar loading process is followed. First, load the trailer onto your gooseneck ball and secure it with the Shift Lock handle in the locked position or ensure the Demco EZ-Latch latch is flipped down into locked position, then ensure to hook up your safety chains. Load up your trailer appropriately. After loading up your trailer, you will want to fill it to between 15 and 20 psi. You will see the green bump cushions slightly compress at this time. Depending on how it rides, test the boundaries and add or remove 5 psi at a time to adjust your ride to your comfort. If it appears the bag is losing pressure, please see the following steps. *** Warning: Never remove the air spring from the frame when filling with air. ***
Check your valve stem core and ensure it is tight. This is a common leak point.
Air the air spring up to 50 psi and then use some soap and water and spray the air spring with the solution. Start with the air tank valve where it enters the bag and through to the frame of the air hitch, including the valve stem.
• If you see bubbles coming from the fitting connected to the air spring, you have several options to attempt to seal.
- Tighten the air tank valve approximately 1/4 turn.
- Remove the air tank valve from the air spring and remove old sealant (mark on your air spring where the fitting is clocked). After removing old sealant, use a sealant like Loctite 545 and put it on both the male threads (fitting) and female threads (air spring). Hand tighten the air tank valve until hand tight.
For 1/8” NPT Air Tank Valves, go 2 full rotations with a wrench, 2-3 threads should be visible after assembly. *** Warning: Don’t bottom out the air tank valve to the air spring. ***
For 1/4″ NPT Air Tank Valves, go 2.5 full rotations with a wrench, 1-3 threads should be visible after assembly. *** Warning: Don’t bottom out the air tank valve to the air spring. *** - If the valve stem has a leak, you will need to replace the valve stem core.
Air the air spring up to 50 psi and use the same soap and water and spray the rubber bellow of the air spring, especially around the metal banding of the air spring. If you see bubbles around either the rubber bellow or the metal banding, please contact us immediately for replacement. If you have immediate need for a repair, you can remove the air spring and use a fix-a-flat (approximately 4 oz) type sealant for temporary repair until you receive your new air spring. After filling, roll the air spring back and forth to evenly coat the inside of the air spring, then go back to previous steps to test for leaks.
If you can’t visibly see a leak, the next step is to take the air hitch and submerge it in water. Ensure you have approximately 50 psi in the air spring prior. When submerged, if there is a leak, you should see bubbles begin to come from the leak point. If it’s coming from the fittings, go through and follow the process above on resealing and assembling the airline to the air spring. If it’s coming from the bellow and the metal band, call us immediately for replacement.
If the solution above is not listed, please contact us. We want you to have the best towing experience possible. If you need assistance, please contact us.
Shocker Hitch Towing Tips & Tutorials
- Towing Tip: Grease Your Hitch Ball
- Quick Tip: Apply a small pad of grease around the ball and on the underside toward the front. This stops the coupler from squeaking, reduces wear, and prevents the trailer from sticking and lifting the back of your truck when you try to unhook it.
- How Much of a Drop Hitch or Rise Do I Need?
- Quick Tip: Measure from the ground to the coupler on a level trailer, factor in the shank of the ball, and account for the truck’s rear dropping a couple of inches once the tongue weight is applied.
- Adjusting Air Pressure (Gooseneck Surge)
- Quick Tip: Setting the air pressure is like tuning a radio dial. Usually, starting around 15 to 20 lbs of air is a solid baseline for lighter trailers, and you can dial it up for heavier loads until you find the sweet spot for a smooth ride.
- How to Install Your Shocker Air Receiver Hitch
- Quick Tip: Take the air out of the bag and push it down before installing. This increases the gap, allowing the hitch to slide right in so you can easily line up your pin.